Apache Country. First
to Ft. Sumner
where Billy The Kid is buried-thankfully-
We’re on a quest for donuts to go with our coffee and Melrose
New Mexico looks likely. Three big cattle
trucks are stopped, right on our highway--a pen complete with cowboys there to
greet them with a herd to load. We have
to pull into the oncoming lane to get around them however. Yep, New Mexico
for sure. I don’t know the difference
between a mesa and a plateau but we’re seeing short shaved of hills at Taliban Outpost. Taliban?
You’d think they’d change their name.
Now coming into Ft.
Sumner I look for a stockade but
find only a historical marker, not to be confused with Virginia’s
Ft. Sumter
of our American Revolution which is where the Star Spangled Banner was written
by good old Frances Scott Key. Darrel
told me that Key was on board ship as a British prisoner, watching the battle
on the shore. Next morning the Stars and
Stripes were still standing--but I digress.
Near Santa Rosa
we’re getting higher and scenic--no power lines or wind machines or buildings. Just rolling gold and green sagebrush. The beautiful desert still exists! On a hill, Santa Rosa
is beautifully spread out and clean. The
Pecos River
is full, about forty feet across, running deep and south fast. I’m here to tell you this is the best of the
historical West. Deisel gas is posted at
$3.17 per gallon--or across the street, $2.92 per gallon. The New Mexico
freeway overpasses are pieces of Southwestern Indian Art.
Uh oh, now there’s a billboard jungle out here in the middle
of nowhere at exit 234 on I-40. What are
they thinking? 20 miles of
billboards? Maybe if they figure they will
group them then the rest of the countryside will be left without them?
Yellow black-eyed-Susans line the road and some cactus have
yellow blooms. We plan to stay in Chama,
above Santa Fe for a couple of days
so I can paint. We’re on the famous old Route
66, feeling mighty restored, surrounded by such nothingness and a beautiful
day. The Jemez
Mountains are huddled almost beyond
our view. But since they’re 3000 feet
high I can still see them. The Coyote
(trailer) issues have been interesting, though the critter is really
comfy. This morning Darrel sprayed some
Tinactin on his feet, which set off the smoke alarm. He disconnected the battery to shut it up but
it kept on screaming until I turned a fan on it. Then he turned on the heater because it was
under 60 degrees this morning, which started the smoke alarm all over again.
We’re hard on RV neighbors.
More yellow, this time Goldenrod plants, soft green sage,
dry grass, dark green mesquite and red dirt with granite rocks makes the taller
hills post-card perfect. I must have
Indian blood, I love it so. Visibility
has to be about 100 miles. You gotta
wonder where the ponds come from out there.
We’re approaching Santa Fe
but know the Coyote and truck will not fit the old town streets, as we’ve been
there before, so we won’t see the best parts this trip.
Lamay, El Dorodo is where I’d live if we moved here. In the hills south of the city. It’s a clear 65 degree Santa
Fe Day. We see
box adobe homes that look like they’re part of the land set in among mesquite
trees. Now we’re going through an Indian
Reservation--Tseseque, then Pojoaqise, complete with their casinos. The 84 is a scenic highway for the 80 miles
to Chama, New Mexico,
just south of the Colorado
border. And we agree to read up on the
flu shots tonight. We hadn’t gotten them
before we left Atlanta.
Albiquin Ghost Ranch sits at 78 degrees and red at the base
of the eroded cliffs, then white, then yellow, topped off with stacked stoneshale
and a dusting of mesquite--far below at the base is the Chama River,
surrounding its length three canyons by cottonwoods and oaks. The cottonwoods are lined with gold as they
enter fall. And upwrd we go over the top
of the mesas at the lower end of the Rocky Mountains.
Purple flowers join the goldenrod or wild mustard. There must be something of old Santa
Fe here but it’s really hard to find among all the
people. Santa Fe
is the oldest state capital in the U.S. Mini
Mt. Rushmore faces peer down at us
around every mountain curve. And here’s
a historical marker at the end of an amazingly steep climb. Now what could have happened clear up here in
Tierra Amarill, New Mexico? The friars must not have known they could go
around the steep hills, poor babies.
We just passed through Dulce,
New Mexico--my mother’s nick namesake,
Dulce, means “sweet” in Spanish. Her
twin’s nickname was “Tot” because she couldn’t say “Carlos” when they began to
talk at a year old.
Chama is adorable at 7800 feet--a little bitty town with
blue flags on the lampposts, flower boxes filled with lavender petunias. I didn’t know petunias came in lavender. The RV park was a knockout after the mudholes
of the plains.
Abby found out about bullthorns today. She was not amused even after I pulled it
out. I remember those miserable suckers
from when I pulled them out of my own feet as a child. It taught me to wear shoes when I was
learning to never spit into the wind or pull on Superman’s Cape.